Let me lead you through the streets of Moscow

by Anni Pelmeni

If we follow Tverskayas street from the Kremlin, the first building on the left hand side will the famous hotel National. For more then a century this hotel welcomes the guest – Tsar’s generals, Soviet workers and Russian oligarchs. 6- storeyed hotel was built in 1903, its official name was Nationalnaya gostinitsa or simply National. Even Russian people pronounce the name with the bit of French accent and very soft ‘l’ and the end. In the early 20 th century among the foreign guests staying here were Anatol France and Hebert Wells. The closeness to the Kremlin made this hotel a fancz place to stay for anyone famous alike. Century ago the ground and the first floors were fancy restaurants and the upper floors were rooms, suits and rented apartments. An elevator was one of the high-tech attractions with shiny buttons and mirrors.

by Anni Pelmeni

Another square of Tverskaya street will be easy for you to spot – Pushkin square with Pushkin monument.

The poet #1 in Russia is of course Alexander Pushkin. Pushkin will be everywhere if you do any cultural or historical explorations of Moscow. There is of course Pushkin square in Moscow with the Pushkin monument. Pushkin square as we know it nowadays is the product of Stalin’s Grand Plan of Moscow’s reconstruction. Originally on this place used to be a monastery of Christ Passions and the square was called Strastnaya (aka Passions). In 1880 Pushkin monument was initially placed at the other site of Tverskaya street. It was only in 1950 that the monument was moved to its current location. There are many establishments in Moscow called after Pushkin: Pushkin cinema (as if there are movies during Pushkin lifetime) where the major premier take place; Pushkin Art Museum, Pushkin Drama Theater.

by Anni Pelmeni

Each big city has an unique atmosphere. It is not only a place where people live, it is also history preserved in stones and concrete. Politics and culture are interlinked in the old and new streets of the big cites. The propaganda and political system are reflected in the main streets where the power-related establishments are located. This is the facade of the regime, this is the means for intimidating, this is the self-reflection of history and current rulers. Someone has said that to judge the live style of people living hundred years into the future, one would just need to read a glossy magazine. To judge the political regime – one would just need to look at the façade of the city center.

My blog is all about Moscow which does have a turmoil history and has experienced multiple political paradigm changes. You are sure to find the traces of that history in the streets and buildings designs. Here I have made my first tentative hypothesis that there are 3 main trends in the nowadays Moscow streets life: the Kremlin, the Stalin’s Empire and post modern high buildings.

The Kremlin ever since 13 th century has been a symbol of monarchy, invincibility of Russian spirit and proud stance of Russian city. Moscow has never been conquered by force despite the multitude of war conflicts that took place in the feudal time. Later in 1812 Napoleon did enter Moscow after Russian army has retreated without a fight, but that did not ensure Napoleon’s victory, on the contrary it was the beginning of his downfall.

Stalin’s Empire style was supposed to represent to the rest of the world the power of Soviet regime and the high standards of Soviet life style. This architecture was created to inspire proud feelings in the hearts of Soviet people, to intimidate the enemies and to strike the allies with awe.

The post-modern creations of glass and concrete of the last 10-15 years are indeed the islands of incredible luxury in the seas of poverty. This is such a honest picture of Russia’s economic and political status quo. This is where the life beats in Moscow, this is where money flows and the major decisions are made. Wait couple of decade for this high-tech facade to become a history and they will also have a lot to tell.

Picture by Gerald

Moscow is not your typical European city. Moscow combines the traits of European merchant’s cities with a major commercial square – the Red Square was indeed a commerce place and it has a defense fort which is typical for medieval Europe. But Moscow also has Asian features with vast bazaars and public bathhouses.

What stories the streets of your city can share with you? To explore history vs politic of your city here

by Anni Pelmeni

It is what could be called ‘a luxury supermarket’ of Moscow, though it might sound as an oxymoron, but this is what it is. Next to Metro Pushkinskaya on the left handside if you walk from the Kremlin, address – Tverskaya street 14. The house was originally built in 18 century by a noble man from the Ekaterina II court, his name was Kozitskiy and the house was a present for his wife. The house stayed in the family of Kozitsky and in the end of the 19 century the granddaughter of Kozitskiy - princess (knyaginya) Bolkonskaya – had a fancy salon on this house which was frequented by famous people like Pushkin, Vyazemskiy, Baratysky and Venevitov.
In the end of 19 th century a millionaire Gregory Elliseev bought the house. After reconstruction the family estate was transformed into a shop selling grocery, exotic delicatessen, wines. Elliseev had a predicate of being a supply for the Tsar’s family which considered one of the highest hallmark of quality. The shop on Tverskaya was indeed something magnificent and totally a new level of custom service. The range of goods available in this shop was impressive both imported and domestic products. The decorations were rather pompous with multitude of gold, crystal and mosaics. Sort of a palace which has everything and will sell anything.

In the beginning of the 20 th century Gregory Elliiseev made what we call a ‘chain-store’ opening the same type of the shops in St. Petersburg, and Kiev. After the Revolution of 1917 the shop in Moscow was remained into Gastronom #1 but it still functioned as a grocery store in a palace. In 2003 it was re-modeled and the original internal decorations were restored as well as the name Elliseevskiy. This store is worthy a visit, treat it like a museum – it is stunning and outrageously expensive.

by Anni Pelmeni

Tverskaya street crosses several squares and each every has a monument. The first square on you walk from the Kremlin will be Tverskaya square (how original!) The monument on this square is Prince Yuri Dolgorukiy – the founder of Moscow. It is a huge horseman who points to the Kremlin, the heart of Moscow. The monument was commissioned for 800 anniversary of Moscow in 1947 and it was placed on Tverskaya square in 1954. This place ever since then became an arena for official events. Moscow bosses seem to specially favour Prince Yuri Dolgorukiy and most of official celebrations and actions are usually scheduled to take place on this square which is convenient as the Moscow city administration is also situated on this square.

Since 2005 Knyaz Yuri Dolgorukiy also serves as a Santa Clause over winter holidays season. Moscor mayor commissioned a special costume for the Prince and in December the Prince is dressed up. Moscow people find it amusing.