Recently I came across this project «Moscow Heritage at Crisis Point by
The bilingual report has been prepared by the Moscow Architecture Preservation Society (MAPS) and SAVE Europe’s Heritage with contributions from experts from Russia, the US, Germany and the UK.
200 pages report about the conditions of Moscow architecture. Honestly, this report put me into the pits of despair. I always had a hunch that city bosses did not give a damn about anything but mone, but what this report presents is more than pitiful state of art.
It is nothing new that the historical building are being destroyed to vacate places for the business centers. But the reports estimates the number of losses as high as 200, which more then I could have ever suggested. 'Erzatz-city' this is how the report writers call the modern Moscow. Erzatz for culture, erzatz for traditions, erzatz for mentality.
"Whole rows of traditional painted stone and wooden buildings along ancient streets and river quaysides are being destroyed and deformed, robbing the city of some of its most picturesque beauty."
It may sound a bit harsh, but actually the beauty of Moscow becomes more and more elusive. I am not trying to be too ambitious here, but I hope this blog will contribute to safe-keeping the Moscow. I really hope that when you visit Moscow it won't be just a post-modern jungle, but a city with the more then 800 years of history. That you find Moscow of different art: wooden, imperial, soviet, revolutionary and your own little Moscow.
The Old Arbat is the most famous street in Moscow. Old Arbat is a 'must-visit' for anyone visiting Moscow either foreign tourists or Russian citizen.
The name “Arbat” is associated for many people until now with the word “Freedom”. In Soviet time in this street democracy orientated people gathered in small groups and discussed alternative opinions about political and economical issues of the Soviet Union. Young people sang forbidden at that time rock-n-roll. And foreigners bought Soviet souvenirs like matreshka and cap with ear-flaps by speculators.
At present time the Old Arbat is a pedestrian street, where Muscovites and visitors of Moscow spend their time gladly.
However it may sound sad, there is no spirit of freedom anymore on the Old Arbat. You will find souvenir shops with a huge variety of every sort and kind of Russian gifts including infamous Matreshka and shapka-ushanka (cap with ear-flaps) .
The whole street is occupied by restaurants and bistros. You can enjoy the nice weather in the terrace and eat the food of practically each cuisine. And Russian food too. Prices in restaurants in Arbat are at a high level like in every tourist place in the world.
Ah, yes! In Arbat there is one degree of freedom! It is freedom from cars, which have crowded Moscow.
It will take more than 1 post to write about Arbat. One of the 'must-know' about Old Arbat is the importance of the bard culture. People with guitars simply live on this street sining both political songs appealing to social-political changes or just entertaining audience on a lazy Sunday evening. Bulat Okudzhava is the bard of Arbat: he lived and worked here all his life. Though in his lifetime he was not a conformists and had quite a trouble with authorities, right now the Moscow bosses decided to open a monument for Okudzhava. Of course in the Old Arbat.
"Ah, Arbat, my Arbat, you are my homeland. I will never be able to walk through till the end". Bulat Okudzhava
Stumbe it!
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